“Like many Black women, I tried numerous hair oils that promised hair growth but saw no benefits… with exhaustion, I gave up,” explains Amanda Cowham to Unbothered over email. “I had a bad sew-in [weave] experience that gave me bald patches due to inflammation and an allergic reaction. This prompted me to go to a doctor for thorough testing,” she says, sharing that she had been diagnosed with an overactive thyroid that provoked “inflammation and itching” leading to bald spots. The 30-year-old content creator from Zambia has been sharing her experiences with hair loss and hair growth on TikTok for over a year. Cowham is one of the many Black women dealing with hair loss and traction alopecia from tight braids and weaves and uses her platform to share hair growth methods that work. For Cowham, her results came via minoxidil: a medication that comes in a foam, solution or pill used to treat hair loss. The treatment, which is available over-the-counter without a prescription, is the one method she says has worked to restore her hair. And, from the looks of her videos, her thick curly hair is thriving. “ minoxidil has given me my confidence back,” she shares. “I now have a head full of hair — more hair than what I bargained for.”

Cowham’s not the only one boasting drastic results. There are over 25 million posts on TikTok of Black women sharing their experiences using minoxidil — including drastic before and after photos of fully restored edges and concealed bald spots. Out of all the so-called miracle hair growth cures aimed towards Black hair types on social media—from washing hair in rice water to TikTok’s favourite rosemary oil—minoxidil is touted as a science-backed alternative with measurable results. However, as with any hair product that claims radical hair growth, there’s room for scepticism and it’s always advised to approach any medication with caution and advice from a professional. The full picture reveals that buying Minoxidil is expensive, has side effects and online markets are rife with counterfeit products. Still, the impressive results seen on social media are driving considerable intrigue within Black haircare spaces (there are hundreds of Reddit threads stating that minoxidil is a ‘game-changer” for Black hair types). As many seek to purchase minoxidil, is this the best solution for Black hair loss?

What exactly is minoxidil and what is it used to treat?

In short, minoxidil is a medication that can come in a foam or solution to treat topically, applied directly to the affected area, or taken orally in a pill. As Refinery29 reported earlier this year, while there are countless stimulating oils and scalp scrubs out there, “the only proven topical hair growth treatment is minoxidil”. For those familiar with commercial products containing minoxidil, such as Rogaine, you may be thinking, “Isn’t minoxidil for male pattern hair loss only?” While popular amongst men seeking solutions for hair loss, minoxidil can be used to treat female pattern hair loss and hair thinning. “[Minoxidil works by] increasing blood flow to the follicle and decreasing hair shedding by prolonging the growing phase of the hair growth cycle,” explains Samantha Stewart MIT, Consultant Trichologist for supplement company Hair Gain, who confirms that minoxidil is “very safe” when treating some forms of female hair loss.

A dermatologist or GP can recommend minoxidil for those suffering from hair loss, yet it doesn’t need a prescription. However, not all forms of hair loss may require minoxidil or any treatment whatsoever. As the NHS explains, hair loss due to an illness, stress, cancer treatment, weight loss and iron deficiency may be temporary and not require intervention. The NHS stresses that no hair loss treatment is “100% effective” and many experts state that minoxidil is not a “cure”. Typically it takes two to four months for people to see new hair growth when using minoxidil, and people have to use the product indefinitely to maintain results — in simple terms some people lose the new hair growth once they stop using the medication.

It is also a significant commitment that can be expensive. On average, Regaine for women costs £35 for a two-month supply whereas, Rogain, containing a higher percentage of minoxidil, can cost around £55. In the UK, it’s worth noting that most hair loss treatments, including minoxidil, are not available on the NHS, so you’ll have to pay for them. Black hair products are already expensive — more expensive than products aimed at European hair — so committing to minoxidil means a weighty annual cost. 

It was a commitment Cowham was happy to take on. After speaking to her doctor before treatment, the content creator has trialled both topical and pill forms.“I have been taking minoxidil for one year and one month now,” says Cowham. “I started with a prescription topical formulation before I switched to oral minoxidil. I did respond well to topical but preferred the ease of oral minoxidil.”

Can minoxidil help Black women dealing with traction alopecia?

It’s clear to see what’s driving the interest regarding minoxidil within the Black hair care space — the stigma of having “no edges” is a pervasive one. According to Carra Labs Textured Gap Report in 2023, hair loss is one of the biggest concerns amongst Black customers and it’s been estimated that up to a third and almost half of Black women have experienced hair loss in their lifetime. While some cases are genetic, such as alopecia areata and female pattern hair loss, many Black women are prone to traction alopecia — hair loss caused by the hair being pulled in the same way for a long time — due to tight, braided hairstyles and weaves that repeatedly pull on hair strands and lead to weakening the hair follicle causing hair loss. In some cases, this can be permanent. I know from personal experience the frustration that comes with trying to repair thinning edges and desperately waiting for results. Though not everyone dealing with traction alopecia may need to try a medication such as minoxidil.

“A medicated treatment such as minoxidil may not be necessary in the early stages of traction alopecia,” explains Stewart, “I would always recommend that the hair loss condition be examined by a trichologist first.” Stewart explains that if traction alopecia is caught early hair can regrow — although, this means re-thinking tight hairstyles that caused the issue in the first place and being vocal with your braider and hairstylist when tension is applied to the scalp. Recovery from traction alopecia depends on the “amount of damage” that has been caused to the hair follicles. “Once permanent damage has been caused, hair regrowth may not be possible,” Stewart says.

While using minoxidil isn’t for everyone, for Black women, like Cowham, the results are hard to deny. “[Using minoxidil] has given me a different outlook on beauty and self-care. I now dedicate my time to taking good care of my hair versus before I’d just put it in a protective style,” she says. “I also have learned to style my hair and spend good money on quality products that my hair will love. I have also learned to embrace my own hair along the way, finding gratitude in the little things I took for granted.”

@approvedhaircare Replying to @X ♬ BIG UP – INJI

Does minoxidil cause any side effects?

As mentioned, Cowham has been taking minoxidil in a pill form for more than a year — she also uses it topically. And, though she welcomes her full head of hair she admits that she has gotten ‘more hair than she bargained for” and now deals with excessive body hair. Because, well, minoxidil helps grow all hair.

Cowham also has complained of heart palpitations and “headaches that “have since gone away”. Cowham has not experienced any more setbacks, but the risk of side effects may inspire caution in others thinking of following a similar treatment plan.

“Like many medications, minoxidil has side effects that some people may suffer from if they use it,” says Stewart. Stewart suggests that using minoxidil topically — applied directly to the affected areas — sees “fewer potential side effects” but it is still something to consider and take seriously. ‘It is important to ensure that anyone considering using minoxidil makes themselves aware of these side effects before starting treatment.”

Scalp irritation and hair shedding are also common reactions to minoxidil. “Any of the ingredients in minoxidil can irritate. It is important to ensure that if you are using minoxidil daily, you wash your hair at least once or twice a week,” advises Stewart. “Minoxidil can also increase hair shedding when you first start using it, this tends to happen within the first two months after beginning use. This shed is due to minoxidil moving hairs from the resting phase into the shedding phase in preparation to start re-growing. This is only a temporary increase and should settle down within a few weeks.”

Those considering minoxidil should follow advice from a GP, trichologist or dermatologist and purchase over the counter in pharmacies. However, on social media, some have turned to online marketplaces, such as Amazon and eBay, that are rife with counterfeit products, further risking the health of your hair and scalp. “It’s really important that you buy a reputable brand that has clinical backing,” says Stewart. “It is not wise to buy from an unknown source off the internet. This could be a counterfeit product containing harmful substances.”

What are the alternatives to minoxidil?

Hair loss is an emotional issue as much as it is a physical one. I don’t have to explain this to anyone who has experienced it. Minoxidil appeals to those who have tried many other options and have seen no substantial results. But this isn’t the only option. For significant forms of hair loss, dermatologists and trichologists can use blood, DNA and strand testing to identify emotional, nutritional, hormonal, environmental and genetic factors affecting the health and condition of your hair and scalp. Depending on the scale and cause of hair loss, trichologists can suggest invasive (and expensive) treatments such as hair transplants, steroid injections, laser and light treatments, or trying supplements and learning new ways to care for your hair and scalp. But first, speak to your doctor, before you take this specific hair growth journey.

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Welcome to Money Diaries where we are tackling the ever-present taboo that is money. We’re asking real people how they spend their hard-earned money during a seven-day period — and we’re tracking every last penny.

This week: “I’m a 32-year-old project manager living in South Wales and working remotely. I moved here three years ago with my partner as he is from this area. I feel really grateful to be able to live in a small town and work internationally. I was elected to the local town council a few years ago. I also stood as a county councillor but missed out. I got involved in politics in the last six years because it felt like we had a run of elections in the UK which didn’t go in the direction I think we need to, so I decided to try and do something about that. My partner and I combined our incomes when we bought our house. We’ve been together for eight years and it’s important to us to live our politics domestically too — we contribute proportionally to earnings, try and give away 10% after tax (though I realised by doing this exercise that we are a
bit short on that and currently around 7%), and spend money locally, because we can afford to pay a bit extra to do so. We’ve received a lot of passive income and are very grateful to be in that position, and aware of how much easier this has made our lives and affects our current choices today.”

Occupation: Project manager 
Industry: International consultancy 
Age: 32 
Location: South Wales 
Salary: Joint income of £70,000. I earn £40,800. J earns £28,000 and we get paid to our joint account. I also get £200 a year for being a town councillor.
Paycheque Amount: £2,422 
Number of housemates: One; my partner, J. 
Pronouns: She/her 

Monthly Expenses 
Housing costs: Our mortgage is £592. As I earn more, I contribute more, but as everything is paid from our joint account, I don’t know my actual percentage contribution. 
Loan payments: £0 
Savings?: We have £19,000 in a joint savings account — this is for some work on the house, and we contribute to it monthly. I also have £4,000 in a personal LISA and £2,000 in an easy-access saver.
Pension? I put in 5% and my company puts in 3%. Not sure on exact numbers. I know this is low from my work and so I increased my contribution by 2% recently.
Utilities: £86 for gas and electric; £180 council tax; £57 water; £38 internet; £11 private dentist.
All other monthly payments: £8 SIM-only deal; £16 trade union payment; £10 political party membership; £300 to charities (currently split between medical aid for Palestinians and the local food bank). 
Subscriptions: £14 for Netflix; £13.25 TV licence. 

Did you participate in any form of higher education? If yes, how did you pay for it? 
Yes, I went to do an undergraduate degree. My grandmother paid my tuition fees — she is well off and in her own words “wanted to see me enjoy my inheritance.” My parents paid me a monthly allowance for my living expenses and I worked several part-time jobs.

Growing up, what kind of conversations did you have about money?
We had conversations about money from a young age. I knew that my parents had saved some money for me that I would get when I was 18, and through my teens, my mum educated me on interest rates and moving money around to get the best deal. I asked for new clothes when I was 12, as I saw my classmates had nice clothes (all ours came from hand-me-downs or charity shops). After a few conversations, my parents decided to give me a monthly allowance which I used to buy my own clothes, among other things. This started at £30 a month. Every year we would sit down together and decide what I would buy and what they would buy. It started with them buying things like shoes, coats, and school things, and me paying for clothes and hobbies. The amount increased by about £10 a month every year, and so the amount of things I was responsible for also increased. This meant I learned to budget from a young age. 

If you have, when did you move out of your parents’/guardians’ house? Age 18. 

At what age did you become financially responsible for yourself? Does anyone else cover any aspects of your financial life? 
When I finished uni aged 23, but as below, my parents still give me money.

What was your first job and why did you get it?
I babysat for families in my village from age 12, and at 16 started working in a local shop. Babysitting was good money, and I enjoyed it because it topped up my allowance and gave me freedom to do more things with my friends. 

Do you worry about money now? 
I don’t worry about money, but I do think about it quite a bit; in terms of earning, spending and saving, and making sure those feel in good balance. 

Do you or have you ever received passive or inherited income?
My parents gave me £10,000 when I was 18 and I was responsible for looking after this and spending it responsibly. I saved it and added to it and put it towards my house deposit a few years ago. When I came to buying the house, they also gave me £40,000 for the deposit and renovations. My grandmother also gave me £10k for the deposit. I recognise how privileged I am to receive this money and how much easier it has made my adult life so far. 

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“We are living in a lip product economy,” a beauty writer friend recently told me — and she’s not wrong. These days, you simply can’t open TikTok without accidentally swiping on some kind of lip product that has gone viral that week. There’s the Laneige Lip Mask and the often sold-out Rhode Peptide Lip Tint, not to mention various lip colour combinations, all of which are bidding for your attention. Even within such a crowded space, it’s obvious that two types of products remain a strong hold on the imaginations of makeup enthusiasts and novices alike: lip stains and lip tints.

The lure of high-impact pigment and staying power (with very low effort and skill required) is arguably why lip stains and tints are so popular right now. Old-school classics like Benetint are cycling back into popularity, while brands like Milk Makeup and Tatcha have unveiled their own unique takes.

To sort the winners from the wastes of time, I road-tested seven popular lip stains and lip tints. Since a long-lasting formula tends to be the main selling point of this lip category, I’ve included photos of how the lip colours had fared by the end of the day, after some considerable eating and drinking. Spoiler alert: The most affordable option took home the crown.

Milk Makeup Cooling Water Jelly Tint in Coral, £22

If you have spent any amount of time on the makeup side of TikTok lately, you might’ve seen people doing crazy things with these jelly tints, namely biting into them for views. (FYI: even though it looks like candy, the brand says it’s strictly not edible.)

I got my hands on this often sold-out product, and let’s just say that the hype is real. It’s like rubber stamping for adults: I only had to press the tip gently onto my lips for the most vibrant coral ink to transfer. The colour does dry really quickly, so make sure to blend out with your fingers immediately. The stain remains visible through the rest of the day, even without any top ups. My favourite feature was that it feels so cooling; the minty sensation has been a godsend as I travelled through a few hot and humid places recently.

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Benefit Benetint Cheek & Lip Stain, £21.50

If you came of age during the ’00s, Benetint probably rings a bell: this lip and cheek stain has recently enjoyed a resurgence thanks to TikTok, and is still very much a makeup staple, IMO. Out of all the products I’ve tried, this has the most weightless formula and subtle look (don’t be fooled by the deep red colour you see in the bottle). Wearing two coats made me look like I had just bitten my lips and pinched my cheeks — and that flush photographs rather nicely.

You can build up the pigment by adding as many coats as you want, but patience is definitely the key: Because of how diluted the tint is, you have to let one layer dry completely before topping up. It’s like painting your lips and cheeks with watercolour. I have heard people rave about how well this stain stays on without transferring, and while it doesn’t smudge easily, the colour faded quickly for me, and I needed quite a few reapplications in between meals. I think I prefer using this as a liquid blush for a natural, rosy glow on my cheeks.

Shop Cult Beauty

Tatcha Kissu Lip Tint in Carmellia, £35

This lip tint is Tatcha’s latest product, and as someone who loves all of Tatcha’s skincare, I was really excited to give this a try. The main selling point of the product is that it’s an ultra-hydrating lip tint that offers SPF 25 protection. It definitely delivers on its promise by filling in any dry cracks on my lips and blurring them out. Ingredients like botanical lanolin and silk protein form a protective coat of moisture on the lips.

However, I’m not quite sure why this is marketed as a lip tint: This product feels like your standard satin finish lipstick, and the lack of staying power reminds me of one, too. It’s quite pricey, though the packaging feels very premium. I do love how the colour Carmellia looked on me, but just a warning: The packaging and description are quite far off the actual colour. This shade turned out to be more of a soft brown-mauve on my lips, while the packaging indicated brick red.

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e.l.f. Cosmetics Glossy Lip Stain in Fiery Red, £6

This is virtually the “Bold Glamour” TikTok filter for my lips. I have been battling a cold for the last couple weeks and as a result, my lips are a lot more dehydrated than usual. Just one swipe of this product has concealed all the dry skin patches I had been feeling self conscious about, and gave my lips a delicious and healthy-looking glaze.

The formula sits somewhere between a lipstick and lip balm, and has a buttery, souffle-like texture to it. I’m utterly obsessed with how it sparkles in the light; It made my lips look so juicy. Just a little bit goes a long way and I only needed one top up after wearing the colour for a full day. At just £6, this is a no-brainer winner in my book. I just wish it came in a bigger size, as the itty bitty tube makes applying the colour harder than it needs to be.

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Huda Beauty Lip Blush Creamy Lip & Cheek Stain in Apricot Kiss, £21

I’ve heard great things about this Huda Beauty lip and cheek tint — but sadly, it was not the one for me. Despite carrying hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid powder and coconut extract, this was by far the most drying product I tried. The formula felt light and non-sticky when I applied it, but it made my lips more and more parched as time went on, and formed a line around the inner corners of my mouth. My bottom lip felt tight and flaky by the end of the day, and the stain made the creases on my lips look even more prominent.

On the plus side, I did like the subtle yet noticeable colour I achieved with just one coat, and the matte finish lent a blurred lipstick effect without me actually having to do the blotting myself. It did a good job staying put with minimal transfer after eating. But unless I happen to wake up with a perfectly moisturised and smooth pout that day, I’ll think twice before reaching for it.

Shop Cult Beauty

Fenty Beauty Poutsicle Hydrating Lip Stain in Zesty Bestie, £21

This lip stain is a long-time bestseller in Rihanna’s makeup collection and the name pretty much says it all: Your lips will resemble a juicy, melting popsicle, thanks to moisturising squalane. If you have tried a lip oil before, this has a pretty similar viscosity. I was very satisfied with how pigmented it was and it still remained very hydrating hours later.

Despite the product claiming that it’s bleed- and transfer-proof, I did find it to be the opposite case. Due to how watery the lip stain is, it’s easy to accidentally overline your lips, and I find that it seeps into the corners of my mouth and my teeth quite easily. However, the ultra-vibrant colours do have more than decent staying power, so it still gets pretty high marks from me.

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Wonderskin Wonder Blading Lip Stain in Romance, £18

This is one of those Amazon beauty hidden gems I kept seeing all over TikTok back in 2021, and I’ve long been intrigued by the premise. It casts a funky metallic blue colour when you first apply it on your lips. You’re meant to buff away the blue layer of peel with a wet cloth after it dries, et voila — your tinted lips will reveal themselves. According to our previous Wonderskin review, the longer you leave the blue layer on for, the stronger the colour will be.

The brand strongly recommends exfoliating your lips before using this lip stain, and I can see why: The colour will come out unevenly if you have any sort of wrinkle or blemish on your lips. Unfortunately for me, since I was dealing with some pretty bad skin peeling on my lips, I didn’t have the best-looking results. My lips were stained a lovely shade of petal pink, but the blotchy areas were dyed bright red. I wish it’s less demanding of the condition of my lips, since the stain itself has a top-tier grip and stays on through the day. Everything comes right off if you use an oil-based makeup remover, but cleansing wipes will require more effort. I’m going to have to give it another try when my lips are in better shape, since I was really impressed with the longevity.

Shop Wonderskin

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Welcome to Sun Blocked, Refinery29’s global call to action to wake up to the serious dangers of tanning. No lectures or shaming, we promise. Instead, our goal is to arm you with the facts you need to protect your skin to the best of your ability, because there’s no such thing as safe sun. 

For a skincare product with a goal of getting people to use more of it, the messaging around sunscreen can be a little bit shaming — and a whole lot confusing. Depending on the day, chemical sunscreen is either ‘toxic’ and disrupting our endocrine system or totally safe; oxybenzone, a key sunscreen ingredient, is either single-handedly destroying the coral reefs or it’s a complicated subject that warrants further research. With all the conflicting information and marketing scare tactics, it’s no wonder so many people aren’t nearly as diligent about sun protection as they should be. 

That said, the semantics of sunscreen do matter. Obviously we want to protect our skin from melanoma and premature ageing so separating fact from fiction — and flat-out speculation — is crucial. Between skincare companies pushing their own agendas and word-of-mouth fallacies we’ve all heard before (‘base tan’, anyone?), there’s no shortage of misinformation on the subject. 

Ahead, we ask skincare experts to help clear up some of the biggest (and most dangerous) sunscreen myths.

Myth: Mineral sunscreen is safer and more effective than chemical sunscreen. 

Mineral sunscreen, also called physical or non-absorbed sunscreen, is made up of minerals — specifically, zinc and titanium dioxide. They create a physical barrier on your skin that reflects UV rays. Chemical sunscreen, also called absorbed sunscreen, works by absorbing the UV rays, converting them to heat and releasing them from the body. 

If you put a mineral sunscreen and a chemical sunscreen with the same level of SPF side by side, they’re going to protect your skin from the sun in equal measure. “In terms of prevention of sun burns and reduction of premature ageing and skin cancer, as long as you apply enough [sunscreen] then it doesn’t make a difference, according to the FDA, whether it’s chemical or mineral,” says New York-based dermatologist Dr Doris Day. 

Unlike other cosmetics, all sunscreen that’s sold in the U.S. is regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and has been since the 1970s. Anything that has an SPF (sun protection factor) number on the label has been tested by the FDA for labelling and efficacy to ensure that it will protect you against the sun for the length of time it claims. (The figure reflects the number of minutes you can be in the sun wearing the product and be protected from sun damage — 15 minutes, 30 minutes, 50 minutes etc.) In the UK and EU, cosmetic regulations require efficacy claims on a sunscreen (SPF numbers, ‘water resistant’ labels etc.) to be “simple, unambiguous, and meaningful” based on standardised criteria.

The sunscreen you use is all down to personal preference. The main reason that many people, including Dr Day, prefer mineral sunscreen is because it acts as physical protection by sitting on top of the skin. Plus, it’s generally regarded as less likely than an absorbed chemical formula to trigger reactions if you have skin sensitivities. “If you have sensitive skin, a mineral sunscreen might be better,” says Dr Day. The biggest issue with mineral sunscreen is that zinc and titanium dioxide are white pigments that can leave a grey or purplish cast on dark skin. Cosmetic chemist Javon Ford has a theory that titanium oxide, rather than zinc, is most likely to be culpable for the egregious white cast. He explained in a recent Instagram Reel: “Titanium dioxide is full coverage but zinc oxide is not (usually).” For those with deeper skin tones shopping specifically for mineral sunscreen, try a formula that utilises zinc oxide and see if that yields less chalky results.

The concern that some people have with chemical sunscreen is inherent to the mechanism of protection; specifically, the skin’s absorption of its active ingredients, including homosalate, avobenzone and oxybenzone. Studies have sounded the alarm about these ingredients having endocrine-disrupting effects but Dr Day clarifies that “at this time, the FDA doesn’t believe that to be true”. That said, the FDA is in the process of collecting more information on the safety and efficacy of different sunscreen products and ingredients.

Until there’s an official ruling to the contrary, dermatologists like Dr Day assert that chemical sunscreen is fine — and definitely better than no sunscreen at all.

Myth: You should only buy ‘reef-safe’ sunscreen.

No one wants to play a part in the destruction of coral reefs and the environmental concerns aren’t exactly unfounded: Numerous studies have established that there is some relationship between ingredients present in chemical sunscreen (particularly oxybenzone) and coral bleaching. What makes confirming or refuting the research particularly complicated is that it’s extremely difficult to study coral in a lab setting, so scientists’ ability to accurately test oxybenzone’s effect on coral is next to impossible.

Recent research has used sea anemones as a stand-in for coral because they are biologically similar. The study found that when sea anemones absorb oxybenzone, their cells metabolise it and convert it into a sunlight-activated toxin, causing death when exposed to light. This suggests that coral is particularly vulnerable to toxic effects of sunscreen. Again, because this research was conducted under lab conditions, we can’t say for sure how it converts in nature.

We do know that certain parts of the world are particularly at risk, like the islands of Hawaii and the Caribbean, where sunscreen containing oxybenzone has been banned. However, more generally, ‘reef-safe‘ has become an unregulated buzzword in recent years, with brands using the opportunity to capitalise on the very real environmental concerns. A ‘reef-safe’ designation actually doesn’t necessarily mean anything other than that the sunscreen doesn’t contain oxybenzone. Dr Day considers it more of a marketing term but adds: “If you’re concerned or you’re travelling somewhere where [chemical] sunscreens might be banned, bring a mineral one instead.”

Myth: My makeup has SPF so I don’t need to wear sunscreen.

Sure, your foundation or tinted moisturiser with SPF can offer a decent amount of protection — if you’re applying it like Meredith Duxbury. “The thing is that almost nobody uses that amount of SPF moisturiser,” explains Dr Day. To measure the proper amount of sunscreen, use the two-finger method: Squeeze sunscreen down your middle finger and index finger and use that exact amount to cover your face and neck.

Most dermatologists recommend using a base layer of broad-spectrum (protects against UVA and UVB rays) sunscreen on your face and neck, then putting your SPF tinted moisturiser right over it. “Think of [base sunscreen] like your primer,” offers Dr Day. You might find that you actually need less of your colour complexion products, like tinted moisturiser and foundation. This way, the SPF in your tinted skincare is a nice bonus and not your only form of sun protection — because chances are it’s layered on too thin and you’re forgetting your neck.

Myth: A spray tan gives me some sun protection. 

A common skin misconception that Dr Day hears in her practice all the time: “I wore self-tanner so I had some sun protection, right?” This is simply not true. “Some people think that the pigment in a self-tanner or a spray tan is protective, but it’s not,” says Dr Day. It follows roughly the same dubious logic that says a ‘base tan’ acts as a sort of protective measure because you can’t tan or burn skin that’s already tanned or burned. Wrong — you can, and you’re only adding damage on top of damage. The only thing that’s going to protect your skin from sun damage is a true barrier, like UV-protective clothing (yes, sun can get through your clothes if they’re not UV-protective) and wearing SPF. “The only way something gives you sun protection is if it has SPF in it,” clarifies Dr Day. 

In terms of looking tan, if that’s what you want to do, there are many sunless tanning options with five-star reviews. However, don’t forget to always wear sunscreen over a fake tan.

Myth: I put sunscreen on every morning so I’m protected.

You should definitely apply sunscreen in the morning but you also have to reapply throughout the day. “If you apply it at 8 or 9 in the morning, by 10, 11, 12, it’s gone,” explains Dr Day. “Now, at the worst time of day, in the mid-afternoon when the UVB rays are the strongest, you have no protection even though you think you have sunscreen on. You have to reapply every few hours.” (A note on UVA vs UVB: UVA light has a longer wavelength and is associated with skin ageing, whereas UVB wavelength is shorter and damages skin cells, causing DNA mutations that can eventually lead to melanoma and skin cancers. A broad-spectrum sunscreen protects against both.)

If you don’t step into sunlight until 1 in the afternoon, you might be able to get by with a single application of sunscreen for the day. However, if you’re going to be outside all day — you’re on holiday, you’re on a hike or you’re just out running errands — pack sunscreen to reapply. “I use a powder,” says Dr Day. She recommends ISDIN mineral powder for its “soft brush” but there are lots of options for reapplication, whether it’s an SPF face mist or a powder brush sunscreen. Once you find a product you like and get in the habit of applying and reapplying, you might find you actually want to keep it up. “I’m brushing it on all the time, on my ears, the back of my hands,” says Dr Day. “I find it freshens up my makeup, too.”

Myth: People with darker skin don’t need to wear sunscreen.

Unfortunately, we know that sun damage happens across all skin tones, not just those with fairer skin who get visibly red in the sun. Everyone — regardless of skin colour — should wear a high-factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect their skin from UV rays.

Dr Derrick Phillips, consultant dermatologist and British Skin Foundation spokesperson, says that while melanoma skin cancer is uncommon in Black skin, when it does occur, it often affects sites that are not exposed to the sun, such as the soles of feet, palms or beneath nails. In patients with dark skin, skin cancer often takes longer to be diagnosed, and late-stage diagnosis can mean a worse prognosis. A study cited by the Skin Cancer Foundation found the five-year survival rate for melanoma among Black patients is 67% vs 92% for white patients. The late diagnosis is because people do not routinely check the aforementioned places on the body, says Dr Phillips. “People with skin of colour often check sun-exposed sites because of this misunderstanding of risk. A more powerful message is to encourage people of colour to examine the sites I’ve mentioned.” It’s also important to get a skin check at least once a year by a dermatologist who is trained at spotting early signs of skin cancer across skin tones.

Myth: Sunscreen causes breakouts.

In 2023, it is never accurate to say that you’re forgoing sunscreen and still caring for your skin. There are so many good sunscreens that won’t break you out. “Traditionally, mineral blocks have been very thick but newer micronised formulations of zinc and titanium dioxide are smooth, cosmetically elegant and very light,” dermatologist Jennifer M. Segal, MD, tells Refinery29.

Moreover, your personal skincare routine can still include all your exfoliating acids and active ingredients that you use to treat acne, lines, wrinkles, dullness and dark spots. Just make sure to include an SPF in your routine, even if you’re only using your active ingredients at night. According to Dr Day, as long as you add sunscreen, you don’t have to massively alter your skincare routine in order to protect your skin from the sun — meaning it’s only beneficial to wear it. 

Myth: It’s best to stay inside, away from the sun.

We’re not going to tell you to stay inside and not enjoy your life. Besides, you’ve probably heard of the studies that say sun exposure helps set our circadian rhythms, alongside the myriad other benefits of being outdoors. “It’s why I walk to work every day, in the direction of the sun, first thing in the morning,” says Dr Day. “Of course, I always have SPF on,” she adds. Moral of the story: Get outside in the morning when possible to avoid the time of day when UV rays are at their highest. Just wear your sunscreen and sun-protective clothing. 

The British Skin Foundation, The Skin Cancer Foundation, and The Melanoma Research Alliance support Refinery29’s mission to promote sun safety.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by us. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy or click on something we link to on our site, we may earn a commission.

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Welcome to Refinery29 Loves, the monthly news bulletin where you’ll find the best things to shop and see in fashion and beauty right now.

With any luck, the arrival of May should usher in the type of weather that’s just right. In other words, perfect for those delicate linen sets and lightweight trench coats we’ve been desperate to bring out of hibernation for an entire year. This Goldilocks-style forecast makes spring one of our favourite seasons for putting together an Instagram-worthy fit. Aside from some much-needed sunshine, though, May is also synonymous with the biggest event in the sartorial calendar: The Met Gala. 

This year’s theme, The Garden of Time, produced some awe-inspiring looks. Think Elle Fanning’s glass gown courtesy of Balmain and Cynthia Erivo’s petal-adorned tuxedo by Thom Browne. Then there was the Met’s Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion exhibit, which produced some of the most inspired makeup looks of recent galas. Beauty went bold thanks to Zendaya, who accessorised her Maison Margiela Couture dress with paper-thin blonde brows, glossy skin and a vampy lip, not to mention Ariana Grande, who embellished her eyes with petal wing appliqués. 

Our invite may have got lost in the post, but that doesn’t mean we aren’t looking to pull together some similarly influential looks this month. If you’re equally as inspired, here are our top fashion and beauty picks to help you on your way.

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On occasions when you want to prioritise comfort or show off your sporty side, trainers have long proven to be the chameleons of the wardrobe. Whether you have your eyes on trending styles and techy fits, or prefer a classic, tried-and-true sneaker, there’s no better time than now to get your trainers out for your everyday rotation.  

After a long winter of boots and layering, perhaps the best thing about trainers is that they’re the perfect match for spring’s other easy outfit solution: dresses. If “jeans and a nice top” is your usual going-out formula, then “a dress with trainers” will achieve the same for your daytime aesthetic.

With so many versatile ways to style dresses with trainers, there’s only one rule of thumb with this outfit combination: If it feels right, go for it. And if you’re looking for some inspiration for classic and creative combos, look no further. Ahead, find 12 dresses and 12 trainers that you can mix and match, and save for later.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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Welcome to Sun Blocked, Refinery29’s global call to action to wake up to the serious dangers of tanning. No lectures or shaming, we promise. Instead, our goal is to arm you with the facts you need to protect your skin to the best of your ability, because there’s no such thing as safe sun. 

The sunscreen I’m currently using — Bondi Sands’ Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50+ — is a humble £7.99, and I love it. It’s lightweight yet substantially moisturising, sits perfectly under makeup and doesn’t aggravate my acne-prone skin. With that price tag, you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s too good to be true, but when an aesthetician and a cosmetic chemist also recommended it recently, I knew I was onto a winner. Others are willing to pay considerably more for sunscreen, though. 

One of my beauty editor peers is currently trialling an SPF worth £110. “It’s just so good,” she sighed, acknowledging that it’s markedly more expensive in comparison to most others on the market. Considering sunscreen is a must all year round, it got me thinking: Is there a “right” amount of money to spend on sunscreen? And what exactly is the difference between luxury and high street SPFs?

What are the main differences between cheap and luxury sunscreens and SPFs?

The answer isn’t cut and dry. An effective sunscreen should always contain UVA and UVB filters, says Nausheen Qureshi, a skincare biochemist and cosmetic scientist — this is referred to as a “broad spectrum” sunscreen. However, it’s a common misconception that expensive sunscreens are “better” at protecting skin from UV light, says consultant dermatologist and surgeon, Dr Magnus Lynch. 

One key reason why a sunscreen might be more expensive than another could be due its additional ingredients. Dr Lynch says that some more expensive sunscreens often contain antioxidants (think vitamin C, ferulic acid, vitamin E and niacinamide) or peptides (skin-strengthening proteins). Interestingly, research shows that antioxidants, which protect the skin against environmental aggressors like pollution, can boost the protective efficacy of sunscreen. Dr Lynch adds that more expensive sun creams may also contain extended spectrum photoprotection such as infra-red (IR) filters, which can be helpful for patients concerned with pigmentation. As well as pigmentation, infra-red radiation emitted from the sun alongside UV has been linked with melasma and age spots. 

Qureshi says that luxury brands may also add texturising ingredients such as silicones (which she rates for creating a barrier on the skin to “lock in” sunscreen) and other complimentary ingredients, which may help to increase sunscreen’s efficiency. “These are usually costly ingredients hence why they are omitted from budget sunscreens,” says Qureshi. Both Dr Lynch and Qureshi note that higher prices can also reflect marketing and packaging expenses. Air tight packaging is usually more expensive than dropper or screw cap bottles, for example, as it preserves the product for longer. For some people, this is all well worth the price, says Qureshi.

Is expensive sunscreen better than cheap sunscreen?

How much you drop on SPF is entirely dependent on budget and personal preference. Perhaps you might have a little extra to spend one month and you’re keen to try something more luxe. After all, half of a beauty routine is how it makes you feel; skincare rituals have long been considered a form of self-care and mindfulness.

You don’t have to forgo SPF if you’re on a budget, though. Aesthetician and product formulator Alicia Lartey tells her clients that SPF should be one of the most affordable parts of their routine. “That’s because you need to use it the most,” she says. “Affordability is relative but you shouldn’t feel bad about using it or worry about how expensive it is to replace. I personally don’t see why an SPF should be over £50 — unless it’s a gallon,” she says.

I put the same question to a handful of industry friends — and it divided opinion. Most said that they would spend between £10 and £30 on sunscreen: “I think there are so many effective sunscreens out there for under £30, no matter your skin type or struggles,” says beauty writer Humeara Mohamed. “I have acne and eczema and my favourite sunscreen to use during a flare is EVY Technology Daily Defense Mousse, £27. It’s incredible, but it’s also the most expensive sunscreen I’ll ever buy.” When Humeara’s skin isn’t having an eczema flare, she equally adores the Bondi Sands Hydra SPF 50+ Lotion, £10.99. “This primes skin for makeup really well and doesn’t feel heavy or leave behind a cast,” she says. 

Beauty journalist Twiggy Jalloh rates Green People Sun Lotion SPF 30, currently on sale at Sephora for £27.90. “I would be willing to spend more on the product if it has science behind it, for example, if it has an oil-free formula or helps with fading pigmentation and [minimising] texture,” she says. Only a couple of people who responded said that they would spend £50 or over on sunscreen, but like Jalloh, they’re willing to pay more for skin-boosting ingredients and cosmetically elegant formulas. “I think because [sunscreen] is already so hit and miss with white casts, I’m always willing to spend the money to find an SPF that ticks all the boxes,” says beauty writer Ata Owaji-Victor. She adds, “Ahead of a special occasion or an event where I’d be more conscious of my skin texture in photos, I’ll wear the more expensive options I own as I’ve found that they tend to be more skincare focused. I like Chantecaille, Dr. Barbara Sturm and La Prairie. Murad Correct & Protect Broad Spectrum SPF 45 is also excellent.” Owaji-Victor says that she leans towards mid-range brands like Supergoop!, Ultra Violette, and 3INA when she’s feeling less conscious about her skin.

Freelance beauty editor Morgan Fargo says choosing an SPF is a minefield considering that her skin is “sensitive, finicky and perpetually dry”. She adds, “I need a formula that won’t trigger a dermatitis flare-up but is high-enough protection that my face won’t erupt in sunspots or worsen the stubborn pigmentation I already have. Of the two formulas I stick to, neither is cheap: Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen, £35, and Barbara Sturm Sun Drops in SPF50, £125, are well above what’s considered ‘normal’, but for the sake of avoiding a flare-up, it’s something I’d happily eschew other things in my budget for.” 

One of my all-time favourite SPF brands is Australian brand Ultra Violette, and the product I particularly like — Fave Fluid SPF 50 — is £37. Considering I’m a big fan of skincare brands like The Ordinary and The Inkey List, it tends to be the most expensive beauty product in my skincare routine, but aside from my cleanser, I’d argue that SPF the most important. This sunscreen is the lightest lotion I’ve come across. Even better, it doesn’t exacerbate my acne-prone skin, nor does it leave behind an unsightly grey tinge.

What are the best sunscreens?

Regardless of how much you spend, Lartey recommends looking for a sunscreen that is high factor (she always recommends SPF 50) and broad spectrum (that is, containing UVA and UVB protection). The rest is trial and error.

“I encourage patients to try a number of different sunscreens from different manufacturers and to find one that is not greasy on their skin, matches their skin tone, does not appear shiny or chalky and feels comfortable to wear,” says Dr Lynch. Comfort is key, agrees Lartey. “It’s also important that your chosen sunscreen works well with the rest of your skincare and doesn’t interfere with your daily activities,” she says, like exercise. “The type of sunscreen I choose always comes down to how it performs and whether it leaves a white cast on my skin,” continues Lartey. “I will definitely be constrained by budget but there are so many great, affordable options that I never really have an issue.” 

R29 rates e.l.f. Suntouchable! Invisible Sunscreen SPF 30, £14, CeraVe AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF 50, £16.50, and The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30, £15. If you have more to spend, consider Ultrasun SPF 50 Extreme Sun Lotion, £32, with antioxidants vitamin E and B5, as well as infra-red protection, or Heliocare 360 Gel Oil-Free SPF 50, £31, also with infra-red protection. Eve Lom Daily Protection + SPF 50, £75, with antioxidant niacinamide, and SkinCeuticals Ultra Facial UV Defense SPF 50 Sunscreen Protection, £45, which has a lightweight texture, are also favourites among beauty editors and skincare experts.  

How should you apply sunscreen?

UV is present all year round, and UVA, which is responsible for premature ageing and skin cancers, can pass through clouds and windows. Whatever you spend on sunscreen, make sure you’re applying it correctly and consistently. Dermatologists recommend half a teaspoon of sunscreen for your face and neck (or two to three finger-lengths worth) daily. Reapplication is necessary if you’re getting a lot of sun exposure or you’re moving around a lot, exercising or swimming. 

Overall, the experts agree: The most effective sunscreen is one that you will use every day, not necessarily the most expensive.

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If I had to describe my favourite feeling in the world, it would be that fuzzy, end-of-day beach holiday bliss. You’ve spent the day at the beach (slathered in SPF, wearing a hat and under an umbrella for shade, obviously), drinking fruity cocktails and reading a smutty romance book, and as the sun starts to set, you peel yourself off the sunlounger and head for your hotel room.

After a quick shower, you slick your hair in a bun, spritz a light, fresh fragrance over your décolletage, brush through your brows and dab on a flirty blush. You’re glowing from head to toe and as you head down to dinner, you decide to leisurely stop for a drink in a beach bar along the way. Hey, you’ve got nowhere to be. 

If I had to name one product that recreates this feeling, no matter the season, it’s the Drunk Elephant D-Bronzi Anti-Pollution Sunshine Drops, £34. And it seems that TikTok agrees — all it took was one viral video by Alix Earle to cause the product being sold out everywhere globally. The hype has been so major that it’s even spawned its very own competitive dupe business and an entire community determined to match glow-for-glow. Luckily though — as someone who has been double checking the Drunk Elephant site every week for updates — the OG radiant skin magic potion is finally back in stock.

Drunk Elephant D-Bronzi Anti-Pollution Sunshine Drops, £34

Originally formulated as an antioxidant, anti-pollution serum, D-Bronzi is a makeup and skincare hybrid that was born from Drunk Elephant founder Tiffany Masterson’s desire to create a bronzing product that followed the same philosophies as her skincare brand.

“First and foremost, [we wanted to add] healthy nourishing ingredients for your skin,” Masterson told Refinery29. She references the inclusion of omega-rich virgin marula and blackcurrant seed oils to support skin barrier function, as well as antioxidants to protect against environmental aggressors. 

Like every other product in the Drunk Elephant range, D-Bronzi is free from fragrance, which Masterson felt was radical in and of itself, since so many bronzing liquids smell like chocolate or coconut. “[Creating] D-Bronzi was the first time I stepped out [of the skincare category],” she says. “It was a serum first, a skincare product first, and at the very end, we decided to add some bronze stuff in there to make it look like we had been in the sun.”

In my opinion, the real beauty of this product is its ability to subtly inject some life into your skin. And Masterson agrees, explaining that it’s not designed to be a contouring product — just as the brand’s O-Bloos Rosi Drops, £34 isn’t designed to be a blush, and Goldi Bright Drops, £34 — the latest addition to the line up — isn’t designed to be a highlighter. “They’re a [colour] wash,” she says, adding that both products were designed to offer just enough colour to wake up the face and get people asking you, “Where have you been? Have you just been jogging?”

D-Bronzi isn’t a new product, having launched in 2018. But this glow-giving serum has had a resurgence lately, thanks to Earle’s GRWM TikTok video. Just scroll TikTok for a minute and you’re likely to see a makeup tutorial that features the product. While the drops are undeniably beautiful, it was Earle mixing the product in with her moisturiser that really made this product go viral. That’s to say, if you’ve tried D-Bronzi before and didn’t like it, chances are you were using the product wrong (by applying it directly onto the face, resulting in a muddy look and uneven distribution).

“Thank you to Alix Earle, they get it now,” laughs Masterson, who makes it clear that Earle was not paid to promote the product. “Education is really hard with products, but Alix Earle instinctively used it the right way.” 

D-Bronzi has a fluid texture and though it is highly pigmented, the product does substantially sheer out when mixed with a moisturiser. That said, you can add a little or a lot of product into the mix, depending on how bronzed you want to be. Earle mixes D-Bronzi with the Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream, £52, but I prefer mixing it with a lighter gel moisturiser like the budget-friendly Facetheory Supergel Oil-Free Moisturiser M3, £16 for a dewier look or the Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream, £62, if my skin needs a richer cream that day.

Combining skincare products together prior to application is a hallmark of the Drunk Elephant brand, where creating little skincare “smoothies” are encouraged. The brand bucks the rules, which dictate that layering products carefully from thinnest to thickest is the only way to ensure efficacy. Instead, Masterson explains that every product in the range (aside from the SPF) was formulated specifically to be mixed together, without diminishing how efficacious each product is. The upside of this, aside from it being easier to apply, is that you will need less serum to cover your entire face, thus making the product last longer. 

“Instead of using three to four drops of a vitamin C serum, plus three to four drops of hydration serum, three to four pumps of moisturiser, [you’ll only need one drop],” Masterson explains. “Take one drop of each product in your hand and put it on your face and go; I don’t have time to be layering. I don’t do it. I cannot wait for anything to dry. I just don’t.”

Here’s to endless holiday skin, even if the weather report has other plans.

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In the current digital economy, it is increasingly rare for the world to come together over a single event. Despite the increasingly segmented nature of the internet, however, this past weekend it seemed like everyone was consumed by the hip-hop event of the moment – Drake and Kendrick Lamar, two seasoned artists at the top of their game, finally letting tensions bubble over into a clash of the titans after years of rumoured friction. Starting with a pointed guest verse from Kendrick on Future and Metro Boomin’s “Like That,” the long-simmering feud quickly escalated into a rapid-fire war of words, both artists releasing four diss tracks (two each) with each response more unrelenting than the last. As thrilling as it is to participate in the shared experience of watching two titans of their industry challenge themselves to a gladiator-style conflict with impressive skill and turnaround, their tracks also expose a long-standing tradition in battle raps: using women as pawns and fodder for slinging insults. When the battle is arguing over who’s the bigger misogynist, does anyone really win? The women in these rappers’ lives sure don’t. 

The dispute started as a competition of skill, strategy, and cultural competency – Drake defending his years of dominance atop the charts while experimenting with a variety of trending sounds, and Kendrick asserting his supremacy as the cultural pace-setter and superior emcee. The brief reprieves between tracks were fertile ground for sparring between fans – each interlude was rife with speculation over the victors of each round, supported with lyrical analysis, archival references, and anticipation of tactical strategies. The positions were clear with every track: Drake was contending with the envy of his peers for his reign on top of the charts despite years of supporting them as collaborators and impugning Kendrick’s credibility as an arbiter of cultural purity and Black pride. Kendrick, in turn, indicted Drake’s authenticity, marking him as a cultural interloper in hip-hop who is insecure over his racial identity (Drake is biracial, his mother is white) and uses different regional trends for validation and revenue.

While the overarching themes were clear and consistent – it rarely gets more pointed from Kendrick than “you’re not a colleague, you’re a colonizer” – the arguments that undergirded their respective points played into unsavoury rumours and speculation surrounding each rapper’s treatment of women. Kendrick repeatedly insinuated that Drake and his entourage are a collective predator and groomers with a habit of association with young girls, likening his movements to Harvey Weinstein; he furthered the attack on the Toronto artist by surfacing long-abandoned speculations over privately having another child (a daughter) that is not known to the public. On “Meet the Grahams” Kendrick addresses Drake’s son Adonis: “History do repeats itself, sometimes it don’t need a reason/But I would like to say it’s not your fault that he’s hidin’ another child/Give him grace, this the reason I made Mr. Morale,” Kendrick raps menacingly. Drake brutally responded in kind on “Family Matters”, accusing Kendrick of engaging in infidelity, colourism, and physically abusing longtime fiancé Whitney Alford. On both ends, the accusations are damning and concerning, marring their character beyond the confines of the short-lived duel.

In the world of battle rap, a certain level of mischievousness is expected – there is a tacit understanding that no holds are barred in the tactical game of competing over musicality, one-upmanship, and narrative building. Battles exist in the liminal space between fact and fiction – believability is largely negotiated by determining which artist is able to land sensationalist blows that lean into common understandings of the other’s character. It is still jarring when those blows include serious allegations of abuse against women and girls.

Over the years, Drake has been plagued with suspicions of inappropriate interactions with young women as well as transitioning his brand into incel rhetoric that consistently marginalises women and girls. Drake’s heel-turn into a villainous alter-ego plays into how he markets his show and what he makes go viral, like giving a fan 50K to flex on a girlfriend that left him with no context for their breakup included, or, apparently, necessary for Drake. “F*ck that young lady,” he said. These days, the rapper’s music is fodder for podcast mics and engagement-baiting, blue-checked accounts pushing relationship prompts on the app formerly known as Twitter. Drake also consistently defended fellow Toronto rapper Tory Lanez when he was on trial for shooting Megan Thee Stallion. When accused sex trafficker and red-pill universe champion Andrew Tate claimed that Drake had wanted to meet with him, what was most revealing was the fact that the claim, however far-fetched, did not feel entirely implausible given the megastar’s public actions over recent years – including helping pen a record for longtime entourage member and security detail Baka Not Nice after he served time in prison for assaulting a woman. The cascade of recent behaviour lends credibility to Kendrick’s recent invectives on “Not Like Us” pointing to Drake’s alleged long-ignored behaviour.

Kendrick has negotiated his relationship with celebrity differently than Drake – the Los Angeles native has largely eschewed branding himself as a public celebrity outside of his music and promoting it. He uses his albums and visuals as a place to interrogate his flaws and experiences. Kendrick’s relatively private life for an artist of his stature minimises points of exposure, but his use of music as a canvas allows for speculation based on what he chooses to divulge. In his most recent album, Mr. Morale and the Big Steppers, the Compton rapper publicly reconciled numerous intimate details about his family life, disclosing dalliances with white women and affairs that threatened the stability of his partnership on tracks like “Mother I Sober” and “Worldwide Steppers.” That marked vulnerability created an opening for Drake to attempt to exploit – marking his neglect of the Black family in favour of his vices as a contradiction to his public image, and inviting speculation over what may have been intentionally unsaid about Kendrick’s household turmoil.

The structure of battles leaves fans and consumers trapped in the afterlife of the dispute when the dust settles: large fandoms take up arms, and a creative competition can evolve into taking up for their favourite artist as not just more skilled, but morally superior – transforming the battle into a righteous crusade for dominance. At best, the cruel barbs exchanged back and forth are accepted as speculative fiction, ratcheted up for sensation – however, the lingering accusations are often treated as fact, associated with actual names and faces. Since the diss tracks have come to a pause, fans have been frantically searching for corroborating evidence to absolve their preferred artist and indict the opposing competitor.

Kendrick fans have resurfaced interviews disavowing abuse and support from Alford’s brother; Drake’s supporters have been circulating quotes from young women rejecting claims that their relationship with the superstar was inappropriate. As the dust settles from the battle, you are left to contend with two realities. One, artists are engaging in a speculative exercise of bloodsport where the ultimate crime is violence against women and girls, a frame that is tragically not reflected in present-day society. And the other, these are sincerely held positions by each artist against their opponent, suggesting that both legends associated as colleagues for years despite being aware of purported harm that their respective crews were responsible for, and said nothing publicly. In either scenario, fans and consumers are left to reconcile a contradiction between the conviction in Drake’s and Kendrick’s lyrics and the artists’ present-day behaviours. The women, girls, and children affiliated with them are left to deal with the fallout in the public. Despite what their raps may claim, the safety of these alleged victims isn’t the priority: it’s ego. 

Objectively, both men are trading in moral inconsistency. Kendrick can barely purport to have a moral brightline around abuse and parental neglect when he has collaborated with serial deadbeat baby daddy Future, claimed alleged abuser Dr. Dre as a mentor, and heavily featured convicted sex offender Kodak Black on his most recent album. Drake’s accusations against Kendrick fall apart in kind; he declares Kendrick an abuser in the same track as he shouts out alleged chronic abuser Chris Brown. This inconsistency is not contained to this conflict, either: in a recent spat between Chris Brown and Quavo, both artists weaponised documented physical incidents with women against the other in a twisted race to the bottom. In Drake’s response to Kendrick’s accusations, he spent the bulk of his song “The Heart pt 6” denying any accusations of sexual misconduct – claiming he was too rich and famous to be culpable – as well as alleging that Kendrick’s focus on the topic was due to his own childhood experiences with sexual abuse.  It ultimately becomes irrelevant whether the artists committed the alleged acts of violence or not, because what is ultimately revealed is that the trauma the women around them have experienced is accepted until it’s time for a rap battle. These artists may be willing to weaponise cruelty against women as a critique but fall short of committing to rejecting abuse around them as a sustained principle.

This legacy of women being left in the crossfire of battle rap goes back to one of the first documented beefs in hip-hop history.  In 1984, hip hop group UTFO released the B-side “Roxanne, Roxanne” – a cocksure boom-bap record detailing the pursuit of a “stuck up” woman who rejected their repeated advances. Queensbridge’s Roxanne Shante penned a response from the perspective of the woman in the song – a seven minute freestyle recorded with Marley Marl. Over time, the responses in what become known as the “Roxanne Wars” became increasingly volatile – from emcees telling her to “suck my dick and die” to KRS-One rapping “Roxanne Shanté is only good for steady fucking” on “The Bridge is Over.” At battle rap’s inception, women became disposable currency for sensation, with no consideration for fact or fiction, legend or myth – and young women were left to deal with the fallout.

In the ensuing weeks, the women around Kendrick Lamar and Drake are going to be thrust into an unprecedented level of scrutiny – their social media exhumed and pored over, every statement and response dissected – in service of a conflict they never signed up for. While the war of words may be over (for now), the effects against the women involved continue to linger with a level of invasiveness that they never consented to. Abuse and grooming are now spectacles for consumers to gossip about rather than structural problems that need dismantling. The care for all parties involved is not prioritised, instead, it’s about who “won” a rap beef. Regardless of whether or not the accusations are merely speculative, the sensationalism continues to harm everyone involved. It is an ongoing shortcoming that cannot continue to be maintained in hip-hop’s next 50 years; it is tragedy enough that it dominated the first 50.

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Fresh off the heels of its new-and-improved hyaluronic acid serum, The Ordinary is back with another launch to get excited about: An exfoliating toner with a milky texture (and long product name, in typical The Ordinary fashion). World, meet Saccharomyces Ferment 30% Milky Toner. (Rolls off the tongue, right?) 

I know what you’re thinking: Doesn’t The Ordinary already make an exfoliating toner? Yes, — Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner is a longtime favorite and bestseller, but it seems there was a little more room to grow within the toner category. “As much as people adore our glycolic exfoliating toner, it is an AHA product, so it’s best suited to those who respond well to using exfoliating acids,” Prudvi Kaka, chief scientific officer of The Ordinary, tells Refinery29. “We saw the desire for a gentler, hydrating toner from The Ordinary to compliment Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner and challenged ourselves to give our audience what they are hoping for, while introducing new skin ingredients and technologies to The Ordinary’s portfolio.” And so, Saccharomyces Ferment 30% Milky Toner was born.

The Ordinary Saccharomyces Ferment 30% Milky Toner, £12.40

I got the chance to visit the brand’s Toronto headquarters earlier this year, and while I was there, I got a very early sample of the toner to start testing. Right away, I loved the frosted glass bottle — a first for the brand — and the lightweight, milky texture. There was no hint of burning or stinging and my skin drank the stuff right up. Pretty packaging aside, The Ordinary’s new toner also marks another first for the brand: an entry into the exciting world of fermented ingredients, which have been quietly trending for some time now. (Fermented arnica is a hero ingredient in Haus Labs’ viral Triclone Skin Tech Foundation, and a patented fermented superfood complex, Hadasei-3, is also found in many Tatcha products.) 

“Fermentation has been used in skincare for many years if not decades,” Prudvi explains. “Some examples of ingredients typically derived from fermentation include direct acids like glycolic and lactic acid, as well as hyaluronic acid and amino acids.” The growth in popularity is likely due to the changes that ingredients undergo when being fermented, adds Prudvi. “We commonly see larger molecules being metabolised [brown down] into smaller molecules during the fermentation process, often increasing their bioavailability,” says Prudvi. Other star ingredients include squalane for hydration, plus fermented N-Acetylglucosamine (aka NAG, which is also found in The Ordinary’s post-acne serum). “While direct acids dissolve or break these links between dead skin cells, NAG gently exfoliates the skin by preventing cells from sticking together,” Prudvi adds. “This helps to speed up the skin’s natural process of shedding dead cells in a much gentler way, making this toner more suitable for sensitive skin.”

I have combination-oily skin, and love to use exfoliating toners at night to keep my skin clear and balanced. I prefer to pat the toner on my skin with clean fingers versus using a cotton pad since I find that the latter absorbs more of the product than my skin in the process. The Ordinary’s Milky Toner was lightweight and had a faint, yeast-y scent. (Saccharomyces is a type of fungi encompassing various yeast species and appears second to water on the ingredients list.) It didn’t bother me in the least, but if you’re used to your skincare smelling like a garden, be forewarned. According to the brand, Saccharomyces Ferment 30% Milky Toner is meant to address uneven tone and texture while providing hydrating benefits, making it a suitable option for sensitive types that don’t tolerate glycolic acid as well. I started using it nightly (I avoid using anything exfoliating in the morning since it can increase skin’s sensitivity to UV rays), after cleansing and before serum and moisturiser. Within a month of consistent use, I felt like my skin was softer and clearer than before, and with a natural, healthy glow. 

Refinery29’s deputy beauty director Jacqueline Kilikita is equally as impressed. “Toners? I can take or leave them,” she says. “While The Ordinary’s Glycolic Acid Toning Solution 7% is great on my parched feet and flaky scalp, it’s much too strong for my delicate face, so to hear that the brand had launched a gentle exfoliating toner was music to my ears.” Like me, she’s already noticed a difference in her skin, which truly speaks to how good this toner is. “I’ve been using it consistently — morning and evening — for a couple of weeks now, and while I haven’t noticed much of a difference in my skin tone, the texture is vastly improved,” Jacqueline adds. “My skin is super soft; so much so, I have to stop myself from touching my face. Perhaps this is thanks to an extra layer of hydration in my skincare routine, as well as the gentle exfoliating properties. All I know is that my makeup looks much better for it. It applies smoothly, sticks around for longer, and doesn’t collect in areas throughout the day.” 

For £12.40, this beauty editor-approved product feels like such a steal. It looks and feels as luxe as other toners I’ve used that are triple the price, and I for one am excited to see how my skin continues to respond as I work my way through the bottle. Forget hot girl summer — it’s ferment girl summer from here on out.

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